The Temple of Seti I is the reason Abydos belongs on an Egypt itinerary. Its limestone halls preserve unusually fine raised reliefs, with Seti I and Ramesses II shown before the gods in carving that feels more intimate than the monumental swagger of Karnak or Abu Simbel.
The temple's plan is unusual, with seven sanctuaries and an L-shaped arrangement that leads you deeper into the complex. Do not rush the painted inner rooms: the colours are still strong in places, and the quality of the carving rewards slow looking.