The simplest way to feel the scale of Lake Volta is to get out on it. The Dodi Princess, an old riverboat moored at Akosombo Port, runs day cruises out to Dodi Island most weekends — usually Sundays, with extra sailings on holidays. The trip lasts about five hours, with a live highlife band, a buffet lunch, and a couple of hours on the island.
For something quieter, smaller boats can be hired by the hour at the port for runs along the wooded shoreline. The light on the water at dawn and dusk is the best argument for the trip — the dam wall, the green hills falling into the lake, and the long arms of the reservoir disappearing into haze in every direction.