Chembe is the fishing village that gives Cape Maclear its other name. It runs along the northern half of the beach and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on Lake Malawi — its population, around 12,000, was here long before any of the lodges arrived. The contrast between the backpacker strip and the working village is sharp and only a few minutes' walk apart.
A wander through the village in the early morning, when the fishermen come in with the night's catch and the nets are spread out on the beach for repair, is one of the more interesting unscripted things to do at Cape Maclear. Wave, greet people in Chichewa (muli bwanji?), and ask before photographing anyone close up.