The British garrison at Seria is a reminder that Brunei's modern history is more complicated than its quiet prosperity suggests. In December 1962, a rebellion led by A.M. Azahari and the Partai Rakyat Brunei attempted to prevent Brunei from joining the Federation of Malaysia and to establish an independent state of North Kalimantan. The Sultan called for British military assistance, and troops arrived within hours from Singapore. The revolt was put down quickly, but the British presence did not leave.
British Forces Brunei has maintained a garrison here continuously since then — around 900 personnel, with the British Army Jungle Warfare Training School at Seria among its key facilities. The arrangement suits both sides: Brunei gets a security guarantee from a long-standing ally, and the British Army gets one of the best jungle training environments in the world. The garrison is not open to tourists, but its presence is visible in the town, and understanding why it is here adds a layer of context to Seria that the oil monuments alone do not provide.