A 25,000-hectare protected mangrove estuary on the coast east of Koh Kong, threaded by tidal channels and dotted with stilted Khmer fishing villages. The mangroves shelter monkeys, crab-eating macaques, otters, kingfishers, and Irrawaddy dolphins in the deeper channels — though dolphin sightings are rare.
A two-kilometre raised concrete walkway threads through the forest near the village of Boeng Kayak, easy to walk at any tide. Boats from the same access point will take you deeper into the channels for around $25 for a half day. Sunset trips are the best — the mangroves go inky and the light turns the sea pink.