Shenhou Ancient Town is a cluster of Ming and Qing dynasty streets and workshops about eight kilometres south of Yuzhou city centre, where several families have been producing Jun porcelain for generations. The town's stone-paved alleys, courtyard workshops, and storehouses of fired and unfired ware give a much more direct connection to the living craft tradition than any museum exhibit. You can watch pieces being thrown on foot-powered wheels, glazed by hand, and loaded into gas-fired kilns that have replaced but not entirely displaced the original wood-fired designs.
The shops in Shenhou range from tourist-grade celadons that bear little resemblance to classical Jun ware to serious collector pieces by recognised masters. The serious ware is expensive — a good piece by a named potter can run to thousands of yuan — but it is genuine, and the better shops are transparent about what they are selling. If you have any interest in Chinese ceramic art, an hour in Shenhou among people who have spent their lives perfecting these glazes is more instructive than any book.