Tongkou Village

Tongkou Village, north of the Jiangyong county seat in a valley of cultivated terraces and forested hills, is one of the county's most atmospheric and least-visited rewards. A Ming dynasty settlement that once had a substantial commercial life, it is now largely depopulated and largely undiscovered, its old buildings — courtyard houses, carved wooden screens, stone-paved lanes — subsiding gently into the hillside.

The landscape around the village is beautiful in the understated way of southern Chinese agricultural land: terraced fields climbing the valley sides, small streams, old stone bridges, persimmon trees in autumn orange. There is no formal entrance fee and no tour group circuit. Getting here requires a driver or accepting the vagaries of local minibuses; the journey from the county town takes about 40 minutes. A quiet morning or afternoon here provides genuine contrast to the packaged heritage sites elsewhere in Hunan.

things to do sight historic
A story
Tongkou was once a lively commercial settlement with teahouses, restaurants, and reportedly gambling establishments serving the valley trade. Most of it is now empty. The depopulation happened gradually over the 20th century, and the effect is not one of abandonment so much as one of time suspended — the buildings stand, the streets still make sense, the persimmon trees still bear fruit.