Montreal Castle — the Arabic name is Shawbak — crowns a conical hill 1,300 metres above sea level with views stretching across a landscape of sculpted valleys and distant ridges. Baldwin I of Jerusalem built it in 1115 as the most southerly stronghold of the Crusader kingdom, controlling the caravan routes between Egypt and Syria and taxing those who passed through the area known to the Franks as Oultrejordain — "beyond Jordan."
The castle held for seventy-four years before falling to Saladin after a long siege in 1189. It changed hands between the Ayyubids and Mamluks over the following centuries before falling into disuse. What you see today is a romantic ruin: substantial outer walls, a small Crusader chapel with partially legible inscriptions, a keep, and a remarkable tunnel that descends to a spring — a secret water supply that allowed the garrison to hold out during sieges. The tunnel is around 375 steps long; bring a torch.
The site is less restored and far less visited than Karak, which is precisely what makes it more compelling. Go in the morning when light falls across the stone walls. There is a small visitor centre at the base of the hill and a modest entry fee. Allow ninety minutes to two hours.