The covered bazaar in the centre of town is the social hub — a maze of stalls selling spices, dried apricots and almonds from the surrounding villages, watermelons in summer, Russian sausage, Chinese-imported clothes, and the inevitable rows of optimistic mobile phone accessories. Mornings are busiest; by mid-afternoon the produce traders have packed up.
The fruit and nut section is the reason for a visit. The Zeravshan valley is one of the best apricot and walnut growing regions in Central Asia. Vendors will press samples on you of dried apricots, walnut halves, raisins and the local mulberry leather. Bring small notes — change is always a hassle.