Sarazm — meaning "where the land begins" — is the most important early site of Central Asian proto-urbanism. The excavated foundations, set under low protective roofs, show streets, courtyards, fire altars and the famous "Princess of Sarazm" tomb, where a young woman was buried with thousands of beads of lapis, carnelian and shell.
The site lies 15 km west of Penjikent on the road to the Uzbek border. There's a small visitor centre with reproductions of the finds — the originals are in Dushanbe — and a sleepy custodian who will sell you a ticket (5 somoni) and unlock the gate. A taxi from Penjikent runs about 70 somoni return; allow two hours. Go early in the morning before the sun gets brutal — there is no shade.