The beach itself is the headline: a long crescent of pale sand backed by casuarina pines, with the water shading from turquoise close in to deep blue offshore. The bay is sheltered by the Hai Van massif to the south, so the swimming is calmer than on most central Vietnamese beaches, and the sea is at its clearest from March to August.
Walk far enough north and you reach the working end of the village, where the fishing fleet still pulls in at dawn. Walk south and the beach narrows to a thin strip with the An Cu Lagoon on one side and the open sea on the other — the spot to watch the light change at sunset. Avoid the months from October to December, when typhoons can bring rough seas and grey skies for weeks at a time.