Along the inner shore of the lagoon at Phu My and Phu An, a string of restaurants built on stilts over the water serves the day's catch: grilled clams in chilli salt, steamed snails with lemongrass, fresh prawns, and the famous bánh khoái xèo Hue-style. The setting is the appeal — bamboo platforms over shallow brackish water, a fishing village on the far shore, and the lagoon's particular smell of salt, mud, and fishing nets.
Prices are local. Order seafood by weight from the live tanks at the front and have it cooked the way you want. The drive out from Hue takes about half an hour by motorbike or taxi; combine with the sunset boat trip for a full half-day.