Abemama Lagoon

The lagoon of Abemama is one of the finest in the central Pacific — a shallow, enclosed expanse of water so clear you can see the coral heads from the surface. The atoll's rim encloses it almost entirely, and on calm days the surface is mirror-flat, reflecting the deep blue of the sky and the thin green line of the islets.

Snorkeling here rewards patience. The reef wall drops away quickly outside the lagoon entrance, and the variety of fish — parrotfish, surgeonfish, reef sharks, the occasional manta — is considerable given how rarely visited the place is. You will need to bring your own gear from Tarawa; there is nothing to rent on the atoll itself.

things to do sight
A story
Robert Louis Stevenson anchored in this lagoon in 1889 and spent three months under the protection of the autocratic chief Tem Binoka. Stevenson described Binoka as the last independent king of the Gilbert Islands — a formidable character who held a monopoly on trade and kept his people in strict order. Stevenson's account in In the South Seas remains the most vivid portrait of pre-colonial Gilbertese society ever written.

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