Ujelang Lagoon is the sheltered heart of the atoll, enclosed by low islets and reef in the far west of the Marshall Islands. Its isolation is the first thing you feel: there is no nearby town, no regular tourism route, and very little sense of the outside world.
The lagoon also frames the atoll's difficult history. For the relocated Enewetak community, it was everyday water for fishing, transport, and survival during years when return to Enewetak was impossible. That gives the landscape a depth that is easy to miss on a map.