Laguna del Tesoro is a shallow freshwater lake of about 9 square kilometres set in the middle of the Zapata wetlands, the largest in Cuba. The water is the tea-brown of tannin-rich swamp drainage, the surrounding reeds and mangroves are dense and impenetrable, and the lake bird life is excellent — herons, anhingas, jacanas and ospreys are routine.
The Guamá Taíno reconstruction occupies several small islands at the eastern end of the lake, reached by a 20-minute boat ride from Boca de Guamá. Boats run regularly to a small dock; you wander the wooden walkways between the cabins, photograph Rita Longa's 32 bronze figures, eat at the restaurant and return. A handful of cabins on the islands take overnight guests for those who want to wake up to the lake's birdsong.