The Plaza Mayor sits at the heart of Remedios and is one of Cuba's most pleasant town squares. Unlike the tourist-polished plazas of Trinidad or Havana, this one feels genuinely lived-in — old men play dominoes under the trees, children kick footballs against the church walls, and the pace is slow enough to make you want to stay for another coffee.
What makes the square architecturally unusual is the presence of two facing churches: the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista and the smaller Iglesia del Buen Viaje. The story behind them involves centuries-old neighbourhood rivalry, plague, and stubborn colonial politics. Walk the perimeter, sit on one of the benches under the shade trees, and watch the town go about its day.