General Lew Wallace Study & Museum

The study where Ben-Hur was written, a Victorian fantasy in brick and stone

Lew Wallace was one of the more improbable figures of 19th-century American life: a Union general who served at Shiloh, the first governor of New Mexico Territory, ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, and author of Ben-Hur: A Tale of the Christ, which was for decades the best-selling novel ever written in the United States. He lived in Crawfordsville most of his life, and his study — a fantastical Romanesque building he designed himself and spent a decade building — still stands next to his house on a quiet residential block.

The study is now a museum focused on Wallace's life and work, with his books, papers, and memorabilia. It is small but well-curated and gives a vivid picture of a Victorian man of extraordinary range. The building itself, with its beehive dome and ornate brick and stonework, is reason enough to stop.

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A story
Lew Wallace designed the building himself and called it his "pleasure house for my soul." The eclectic structure took ten years to build and was intended to be part library, part studio, part retreat. He wrote several books here, but Ben-Hur — which he had largely drafted before the building was finished — became the best-selling novel of the 19th century and was adapted into film multiple times, including the famous 1959 Charlton Heston version.