Largo do Boticário

A hidden colonial square behind Corcovado mountain, with painted 19th-century houses around a cobblestone court

Largo do Boticário is a small, perfectly preserved colonial square in the Cosme Velho neighbourhood, tucked behind Corcovado mountain and completely unknown to most visitors. Four 19th-century houses painted in terracotta, yellow, blue, and green surround a cobblestone courtyard with a central fountain — the ensemble looks like a stage set for a period drama, which is essentially what it is: the square has been protected since the 1930s and has not changed materially since.

The square is a five-minute walk from the Corcovado cog railway station, making it an easy combination with the Christ the Redeemer visit. Take the lane off Rua Cosme Velho and follow it to the end. There is almost never anyone here outside the occasional tourist who knows to look for it.

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A story
The largo takes its name from Joaquim Luís da Silva Souto, an apothecary (boticário) who owned a house here in the early 19th century and supplied medicines to the Portuguese Royal Family. The square has been closed to traffic since the 1930s and has retained its colonial character — the four painted houses around the central garden represent the four colours of the colonial manor house tradition.