Arraial do Cabo sits at the tip of the peninsula where Brazil's coast turns west toward Rio, and the upwelling of cold, nutrient-rich water here gives it the clearest sea in the state — turquoise over white sand, and noticeably chilly. It is about three hours from Rio de Janeiro, and Brazilians call it the Caribbean of Rio.
The famous beaches are reached by boat. Trips from the harbour at Praia dos Anjos go to the Prainhas do Pontal do Atalaia, two small coves at the foot of a headland, reached down a long wooden staircase; to the Praia do Forno; and around the Ilha do Cabo Frio to the Gruta Azul, a sea cave. The water makes Arraial one of the best places in Brazil to learn to dive, with turtles, rays and a few wrecks.
The town itself remains a working fishing port, less polished than Búzios up the coast. The boat tours are extremely popular and the famous beaches can be crowded in summer; go early, or out of season, when Arraial is at its best.