Cerro Concepción sits beside Cerro Alegre and together they form the cultural heart of historic Valparaíso. Slightly less touristed than its neighbour, Cerro Concepción has a more lived-in quality — local families, neighbourhood shops, and the kind of ordinary street life that Cerro Alegre is in danger of losing. The street art here is outstanding: large-scale murals cover entire building facades, created by both Chilean and international artists.
Paseo Atkinson is the street most worth walking — a narrow pedestrian lane with views across the bay that emerge between the closely packed houses. The Anglican St Paul's Cathedral (1858) on the hill reflects the historic presence of the British merchant community. The descent to the flat city from Cerro Concepción via the Ascensor El Peral is one of the most pleasant short journeys in the city.