For the full cuy experience, head out to the village of Genoy on the flanks of the Galeras volcano, where a string of family-run restaurants specialise in nothing else. The guinea pigs are raised on site, gutted, skewered whole, and roasted slowly over wood-fired hearths.
Sundays are the day to go — the whole village smells of smoke and the restaurants fill with extended families. About 15 minutes from the centre by taxi.