Lethem sits on the Takutu River looking across at Bonfim in Brazil, and functions as the southern hinge of Guyana: the end of the long road down from Georgetown, the border crossing, and the supply town for the Rupununi ranches. A bridge has connected the two countries since 2009, and much of the town's commerce runs on Brazilians coming over to shop.
It is not a pretty place and does not pretend to be. What it offers is the Kanuku Mountains rising to the east, and the rodeo — the Rupununi Rodeo at Easter, when the ranches bring in their vaqueros and the town fills up beyond its capacity for three days. If you want to see it, book everything months ahead.
The overland route to Brazil, and the road north through Iwokrama to Georgetown, both start here. The road is dirt for most of its length and impassable in the wet.