The drive from Malanje takes around two hours on roads that have improved but still demand patience and a high-clearance vehicle in the wet season. You arrive at a pousada perched on the cliff opposite the falls, and the view is the kind that genuinely justifies the journey — a vast amphitheatre of water plunging into a cauldron of mist, framed by tropical forest.
Trails lead down to viewpoints partway into the gorge; the bottom is reached only with a guide and effort. The pousada has a few rooms and a restaurant, but most visitors come for a day from Malanje. Allow more time than seems necessary — Kalandula is the sort of place where you mean to leave after an hour and end up staying until sunset.