The pirogue trip across Lake Nokoué from Abomey-Calavi shore to Ganvié takes about 30 minutes and is the only way to reach the village. Pirogues — long wooden dugout canoes, sometimes with a motor — depart from the jetty when enough passengers have assembled. Negotiate the price before you board; the standard return trip includes waiting time while you explore.
On the water, the lake spreads in all directions — low and brown, with the distant shores of Cotonou visible to the south. The village materialises gradually: first the outer stilt houses, then the main streets of water between rows of homes, then the centre with its small market and the larger community buildings. The wooden houses are built on platforms raised above the lake on poles, connected by walkways and accessed by canoe. Everything that happens on land happens here on water: shopping, visiting, fishing, school. Tour pirogue operators expect to be paid to take you through the main areas; the price also covers a guide.