The Museu Municipal de São Filipe occupies one of the town's finer old buildings, a two-story sobrado with thick basalt walls that keep the interior cool even in the midday heat. The collection is modest by international standards but honest about the island's history, including chapters — the slave trade, the stratified colonial class system — that many heritage sites in the region gloss over.
The exhibits move from pre-colonial geology and settlement through the Portuguese colonial period, with particular attention to the brancos da terra: the locally born descendants of Portuguese colonists and enslaved people who became the island's landowning class and built the sobrados that define Sao Filipe's character today. There are also displays on Fogo's volcanic eruptions, its coffee and grogue (sugar-cane rum) production, and the island's distinctive musical tradition. Worth an hour before you leave town.