Café de la Gare

Near the old railway station, the Café de la Gare is a holdover from the French colonial era and one of the most atmospheric spots in the city for a morning coffee. The espresso is strong, the croissants come from a nearby bakery, and the ceiling fans do what they can against the heat. The clientele is a cross-section of the city: French military off-duty, Somali businessmen, Ethiopian traders waiting for the train. By midday it pivots to cold drinks and light lunches. The setting, with its tiled floors and wooden furniture, feels genuinely old without being a pastiche.

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