The highlands surrounding Mekele contain more than 120 rock-hewn churches carved directly into cliff faces and mountains, most of them between the 4th and 14th centuries. They are among the oldest functioning Christian churches in the world, and many remain active places of worship today, still serving the local Orthodox communities.
The most dramatic are clustered in the Gheralta district, about two hours west of Mekele. Abuna Yemata Guh requires a vertiginous climb and is rewarded with extraordinary Byzantine-style frescoes preserved in the cave's dry air. Petros and Paulos (also called Dugem Selassie) is more accessible and has a remarkable carved interior. Debre Tsion, reached by a moderate hike, commands views across the entire escarpment. Most churches charge a small entrance fee and require you to remove shoes; some require a guide. Bring a torch for the interiors. Women are welcome in most churches but should cover their hair and shoulders.