The fishing harbour below Elmina Castle is one of the most photogenic spots in Ghana. Hundreds of brightly painted wooden pirogues crowd the Benya lagoon at all hours, with the white walls of the castle rising above them. The boats are painted in vivid colours — often representing the colours of a football club or a particular religious affiliation — and the scene changes dramatically through the day.
The best time to visit is early morning, between 6 and 8 am, when the boats return with the night's catch and the market comes to life. Fishermen sort and sell directly from the boats; women from the town wade out to negotiate prices. The noise, colour, and activity are extraordinary. By midday the harbour quiets down. In the late afternoon, the light turns golden on the castle walls and the boats preparing for the next night's run. The harbour is free to walk around and photograph, though it is courteous to ask before photographing individuals at close range.