Elmina is a small, colourful fishing town 15 km west of Cape Coast, and home to Elmina Castle — the oldest European building in sub-Saharan Africa, built by the Portuguese in 1482. Like Cape Coast Castle, it was used in the transatlantic slave trade, and tours of the dungeons and trading halls are deeply moving. The UNESCO World Heritage site attracts visitors from across the world, but Elmina is quieter and more relaxed than Cape Coast itself.
The town is worth exploring beyond the castle. The fishing harbour is one of the most photogenic sights in Ghana — hundreds of brightly painted wooden pirogues crowded into the Benya lagoon, with the castle rising above. The daily fish market is best seen at dawn. Fort St Jago sits on the hill above the castle with commanding views over the coastline. The Dutch Cemetery in the old town preserves 17th- and 18th-century graves from the Dutch colonial period, and St Joseph's Minor Basilica is a reminder that the region's Christianity is five centuries old.
Elmina is a good base for visiting both castles and Kakum National Park. The Bakatue festival, held in early July, marks the beginning of the fishing season with canoe races, drumming, and celebrations along the lagoon.