The MV Ilala is a 1949 lake steamer that runs a weekly circuit up and down Lake Malawi, calling at ports on both the Malawian and Mozambican shores. Nkhata Bay is one of her main stops, and the arrival of the ferry — usually in the small hours of the morning — is the busiest moment of the week. Traders unload sacks of rice and bicycles, passengers stagger off after twelve hours on deck, and the whole port comes briefly to life.
Even if you are not travelling on her, the Ilala is worth getting up for. The schedule slips constantly, so ask at the port the day before for current departure times. If you do board, the choice is cabin (rarely available, often grim), first-class deck (a covered upper deck with bar and reasonable air), or economy (the open lower deck, hot, crowded, and far more entertaining). The route between Nkhata Bay and Likoma Island on the Mozambican side is the classic short trip — eight hours each way, sleeping rough on deck.