The main market sits a short walk inland from the port, a busy warren of stalls selling everything from fresh chambo to second-hand t-shirts to mobile phone accessories. The fish section is the most striking — basket after basket of usipa (a small sardine-like lake fish, dried in the sun) alongside larger chambo and kampango fresh from the morning's catch. The smell is strong, the prices are good, and the bargaining is friendly rather than aggressive.
Come in the early morning to see the lake fish at their freshest and the produce section at its busiest. The market also has small eateries serving nsima with relish or fish stew, which is the cheapest and best meal in town. As elsewhere in Malawi, ask before photographing people.