Erg Chegaga is the largest dune field in Morocco, a vast expanse of sand ridges and ergs stretching across roughly 40 kilometres of desert 50 kilometres west of M'Hamid. The dunes rise to over 100 metres and are more imposing and less visited than the more famous Erg Chebbi near Merzouga. The night skies here are extraordinary — the absence of light pollution produces a Milky Way that looks almost artificial.
Getting to Chegaga requires a 4x4 or a camel trek of two to three days. Most visitors arrange an overnight trip through agencies in M'Hamid — the standard package includes a camel for part of the journey, a camp in the dunes, dinner and breakfast, and a return by 4x4. The experience of sleeping in the open desert with nothing around you in any direction is genuinely memorable and worth the considerable effort and cost of getting there.