Across the bridge from Zagora proper, Amezrou is the green half of the place — a network of mud-walled lanes running between irrigated palm gardens, with a 17th-century kasbah at its core. It is much pleasanter to wander than the dusty main street of Zagora, and the easiest place to get a feel for what oasis life still looks like.
The village's old Jewish quarter, the Mellah, was inhabited until the 1950s and is still home to families who learned the silversmith's trade from their Jewish neighbours. Several workshops will show you how the inlay and engraving is done, and sell the results without much pressure. A few small guesthouses inside the palmery — the long-running Hôtel La Fibule among them — make a much quieter base than the centre of town.