Wednesday morning is when Zagora pulls itself together. Berbers and a few remaining Sahrawi nomads come in from the surrounding palmeries and desert to trade dates, livestock, blankets, and produce, and the otherwise sleepy town fills up. The animal section, on the southern edge, is the most striking — donkeys, goats, the occasional camel, and a great deal of haggling.
The dates alone are worth the trip. Zagora is famous for its varieties — the dark and chewy Mejhoul, the smaller honey-coloured Boufeggous, the prized Bou Sthammi — and the prices in the souk are a fraction of what you will see anywhere else. Come early, before about eleven, both for the cooler air and because the best stock goes first.