Mlilwane is Eswatini's oldest protected area, and it has an unusual quality: because it has no predators — lions, leopards, and hyenas were removed or never reintroduced — you can walk, cycle, or ride horses through the reserve without a guide. This makes for an experience that is quite different from the fenced-vehicle safari of larger African parks. You move at your own pace, the animals are habituated to people on foot, and warthogs and nyala graze within a few metres.
The reserve's rest camp sits at the heart of the sanctuary and is an ideal base for a night or two. Guided game drives and horse trails are available for those who want them. The birdlife is excellent — over 300 species recorded — and the surrounding Mahwaqa Mountains provide a scenic backdrop. Entry fees are modest by regional standards.