Kariakoo — the name comes from the British army's Carrier Corps, who camped here during the First World War — is the African heart of the city. Its grid of streets a kilometre inland from the harbour is one continuous market, with the covered Kariakoo Market at the centre and an overflowing street economy stretching for many blocks in every direction. Cloth dealers concentrate on Msimbazi Street, fresh produce on Mkunguni, hardware on Tandamuti, gold on Livingstone.
Walk in the morning while the air is still cool. Carry a small amount of cash, leave valuables in the hotel, and accept that you will be jostled. Most of the city's working population spends part of every week here; missing it means missing the city.