Ushongo Beach runs north of Pangani for several kilometres without a resort in sight. The sand is white and deep, the palms lean over the waterline, and on most days you will share it only with local fishermen pulling their nets. The Indian Ocean here is warm and generally calm, protected by the offshore reef system.
Getting to Ushongo requires a short boat crossing of the Pangani River or a longer detour by road. The crossing takes minutes and can be arranged at the river mouth. Once on the north bank, the beach stretches ahead of you with the kind of emptiness that is increasingly rare on the East African coast. There are a handful of small guesthouses scattered along the northern shore for those who want to stay longer. It is best visited outside the main rains (April to May), when the sea can be rough and the track from town becomes difficult.