Dékon is the dense, slightly chaotic neighbourhood that fills the wedge between the Grand Marché, the cathedral and the road north toward Tokoin. It is the most workaday part of central Lomé: small concrete houses, narrow lanes, bars on every corner, mechanics, tailors, hairdressers, and the city's busiest moto-taxi pickup points.
It is the right place to spend an evening if you want something other than the hotel restaurants of the boulevard. The maquis along Rue Aniko Palako serve cold beer and grilled chicken until late, and a few clubs in the area have decent live music on weekends. Walk in the day to get a feel for it, and come back in the evening when the heat has dropped and the bar terraces fill up.