El Ghriba, in the village of Er Riadh (Hara Sghira) a few kilometres south of Houmt Souk, is one of the oldest synagogues in the world and the spiritual centre of North African Jewish life. The present building dates from the early twentieth century — a beautiful, blue-tiled interior with ornate carved woodwork, brass lamps, and inscribed stone tablets — but the site itself has been sacred to Jewish pilgrims for at least two millennia.
The annual Lag BaOmer pilgrimage, held 33 days after Passover (usually in May), brings thousands of Jewish worshippers from Tunisia, France, and Israel. For the rest of the year, the synagogue is open to visitors of all backgrounds; entry requires modest dress and the security is thorough, a reminder that this place was targeted in a devastating bomb attack in 2002.
The village of Er Riadh around it is worth a wander in its own right — it is also the canvas for the Djerbahood street art project, which has covered its walls with murals by artists from 30 countries.