The small Place du Caire is the social heart of the medina — a tree-shaded square ringed by old wooden doors, a fragment of the Mustapha Hamza mosque on one side and several cafes spilling tables onto the cobbles. Locals come here for mint tea and a domino game; in spring the bougainvillea takes over the walls.
It is also the easiest place to ask directions if you are lost in the maze of lanes between the Skifa Kahla and the Great Mosque. Wait long enough on a bench and you will probably be offered tea.