Bondorbazar is the older commercial quarter just north of the Surma River, a tighter and more atmospheric neighbourhood than Zindabazar. The streets here are narrow, the shops smaller and more specialised (silver, tailors, spice merchants), and the architecture still includes a number of pre-Partition buildings.
A slow wander between Bondorbazar, the Keane Bridge, and the dargah passes through most of what is genuinely old in Sylhet. Crowded and chaotic at rush hour; calmer in the early morning. Watch your camera and wallet in the dense crowds around the market.