Wat Banan sits atop a hill 25 kilometres south of Battambang, reached by a climb of some 350 steps that passes through jungle and past old stone carvings. The hilltop reveals five Angkorian towers built from laterite and sandstone in the 11th century, ruined but recognisably Khmer. The views across the rice paddies and fruit orchards of the Battambang plain from the temple's base are excellent.
The site is far less visited than Angkor and has a pleasantly peaceful atmosphere, especially in the morning. Combine it with Phnom Sampeau on the same day — both are accessible by tuk-tuk from Battambang, and the road between them passes through typical Cambodian countryside. A guide is not necessary but adds considerably to the experience.