The back lanes of Gulangyu, away from the commercial drag near the ferry terminal, are the best place to experience the island's extraordinary architectural mix. Victorian mansions with Doric columns stand next to Spanish-style villas with terracotta tile roofs; Japanese-era buildings in a stripped classical style face Fujianese shophouses with carved eaves; mid-century modernist blocks interrupt rows of 19th-century construction. The effect is not chaotic — the scale is consistently low and the lane widths consistent — but it is unlike anything else in China.
The best approach is to pick a lane away from the main tourist route and follow it without a specific destination. The Bishan Road area preserves some of the best early 20th-century residential architecture. Neicuo'ao Lane is quieter than the main streets and retains a residential character. Zhangzhou Road along the northeastern shore passes several restored consulate buildings. The island is small enough that getting lost is not a problem; any lane will eventually reach the coast or a recognizable landmark.