Sunday Market (Old Street Market)

The Sunday market at Kaili's Old Street draws villagers from across the region and runs from mid-morning through early afternoon. Unlike the reconstructed "ethnic markets" staged for tourists at major village destinations, this is a functioning supply market where local people come to buy and sell agricultural goods, livestock, seeds, and household supplies. The traditional clothing worn by the older market-goers — Miao women in embroidered jackets and elaborate silver pins, Dong villagers in indigo-dyed cloth — is worn rather than performed.

The market spreads through several blocks of the old quarter. One section focuses on agricultural produce and dried goods; another on livestock (chickens, ducks, sometimes pigs); a third on textiles and craft materials. The silver jewellery and embroidery sold here is primarily for local use, not tourist consumption, and the prices reflect that. It is possible to spend a long time looking without being hassled to buy.

The market dissolves by early afternoon as sellers return to their villages. Arrive by 9am for the full experience; by noon, the most interesting sections are thinning.

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A story
The indigo-dyed clothing worn by older Miao women at the Sunday market is produced through a process that can take weeks for a single length of cloth: the fabric is dyed, dried, re-dyed, beaten smooth with wooden mallets, and then dyed again until the colour deepens to the near-black blue-black that is the mark of a finished piece. Machine-made versions are sold at the market too, but the hand-dyed cloth is identifiable by touch — stiffer, with a sheen the cheaper versions can't replicate.

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