Hand-Pulled Noodles

The local noodle dish, served everywhere from street stalls upwards

Shandong is wheat country and its noodle tradition is as old as any in China. In Tai'an the most common form is hand-pulled (lamian), made to order from a single rope of dough that the cook stretches and folds into ever finer strands before throwing into the broth. Tongtian Street and the smaller lanes around Dai Temple have a noodle shop on every block.

A bowl of beef noodles with chilli, vinegar and a handful of greens runs to a few yuan and is the standard refuelling meal after the mountain. Look for the queue at lunchtime — that is usually the right shop. Larger restaurants do more elaborate versions with seafood, mushrooms, and slow-braised meat.

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