Paoma Mountain

Paoma Mountain — Running Horse Mountain — rises directly above Kangding's centre, its forested slopes beginning where the commercial streets end. The ascent on foot takes about thirty minutes and is a legitimate walk rather than a strenuous hike; a cable car covers the same distance for those who want the views without the exertion. A temple complex on the summit contains several halls with good views of the Zheduo River gorge below and the snow peaks that crowd the skyline in every direction.

The mountain is especially notable during the annual Paoma Mountain Festival in the fourth Tibetan calendar month, when horse racing takes place on the flat area at the summit. This is one of the more unusual urban festivals in China: a horse racing tradition conducted on the top of a mountain that rises directly above a city, surrounded by thousands of spectators in a mixture of traditional Tibetan dress and contemporary Chinese street fashion. Outside festival time the summit area is simply a pleasant high point with views, prayer flags, and the usual offerings of tourist food and trinkets.

The route down on the other side of the mountain passes through forest and connects to the town by a longer path — useful for those who want a loop rather than a return by the same route.

things to do sight
A story
Paoma Mountain became famous across China through a 1939 folk song by Wu Wenliang, Kang Ding Qing Ge (Kangding Love Song), which begins "Running horse mountain has a running horse mountain on the cloud..." The song was originally a love song between a Han Chinese man and a local Tibetan woman — a romance made possible only in a trading town like Kangding where different cultures met. It was recorded and broadcast nationally, and for a generation of Chinese people who had never visited, Kangding meant Paoma Mountain and the song they heard on the radio.