Sertri Gompa and Sky Burial Site (Gansu Side)

Sertri Gompa on the Gansu side of the provincial border is the site of Langmusi's sky burial platform, located on a high rock above the monastery. Sky burial still takes place here and is one of the most significant aspects of the village's religious culture. It is not a spectacle and should not be treated as one: visitors are permitted to be present but are expected to observe with silence and respect, to follow any instructions from the officiants, and to understand that they are witnessing a private family ceremony, not a public performance. Photography is inappropriate.

The monastery itself is smaller and somewhat less architecturally elaborate than its Sichuan counterpart, but the religious community is active and the setting — on a hillside above the provincial river with the gorge behind it — is dramatic. The gorge to the north of the monastery is the starting point for several hiking routes into the surrounding hills and a full-day route through Baima Tibetan villages.

The provincial river that divides Langmusi is narrow enough to step across in dry weather. The contrast between the two sides — ostensibly the same village, administratively divided between two provinces with different local authorities — is mostly invisible to the eye but creates some variation in how the two sides are managed and what is accessible.

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A story
Sky burial — the Tibetan practice of offering the body of the deceased to vultures on a high rock platform — is rooted in Buddhist concepts of impermanence and compassion: the body is an empty vessel after death, and offering it to living creatures is an act of generosity. The practice was suppressed during the Cultural Revolution and has only been openly practised again since the 1980s. Langmusi is one of the few places where it still occurs in a form accessible (with appropriate respect) to outsiders. Griffon vultures, which know the schedule and gather in advance, are a distinctive presence in the skies around the village.