Three Pagodas (Chongsheng Si)

The single most recognisable image of Dali: three white pagodas standing on a hillside above the plain, framed by Cangshan behind them, with Erhai Lake stretching to the east. The tallest dates to the early 9th century and remains one of the oldest surviving Buddhist structures in southwestern China.

The Chongsheng Temple complex behind the pagodas is a modern reconstruction (the original was destroyed in the 19th century) and feels somewhat theme-park — but the pagodas themselves are genuine, and the views from the temple grounds are spectacular. A reflecting pool below the pagodas at the entrance to the complex is the classic photography spot, particularly at sunrise. About 4 km northwest of the old town; reachable by bus, electric scooter, or 30-minute walk.

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A story
The central pagoda, Qianxun Ta, was built around 824 CE during the Nanzhao Kingdom — a Tibeto-Burman state that ruled much of southwestern China from Dali for two centuries. Workers laid each tier of the 70-metre tower one storey at a time, piling up earth around it as scaffolding; when the pagoda was finished, the earth was excavated away. The two flanking pagodas were added in the 10th century. When a major earthquake hit Dali in 1925 and destroyed much of the town, all three pagodas survived — and they have survived more than thirty significant earthquakes since their construction.

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