The Narmada is one of India's most sacred rivers — unlike the Ganges and Yamuna, it flows westward, which Hindu tradition holds to be especially auspicious. Every stone in the riverbed is considered to be a naturally occurring Shiva lingam (Narmada Shiva lingas), and pilgrims collect and worship smooth black oval pebbles from its banks. A parikrama (circumambulation) of the entire river — a walk of some 2,600 kilometres — is one of Hinduism's most demanding pilgrimages.
The ghats at Hoshangabad stretch along the southern bank of the river and are liveliest at dawn and dusk. Unlike the overwhelming spectacle of Varanasi, the atmosphere here is intimate and unhurried. Priests perform aarti (fire ceremonies) in the evenings; local fishermen cast nets in the shallows; and pilgrims rest on the stone steps between prayers. A walk along the ghats at either end of the day requires no plan — just follow the river.