The lanes radiating out from Bayn al-Haramayn are a covered bazaar dedicated mostly to pilgrim needs: prayer beads of Karbalai clay, framed calligraphy, dates from the south, votive offerings, and small turbah (prayer stones) made from the soil of the battlefield. There are also vendors selling rugs, perfumes, and a remarkable variety of sweets — try the Karbalai zalabiya, a syrup-soaked pastry sold by the kilo.
The bazaar is at its most atmospheric on Thursday and Friday evenings, when families come out after the prayers, and during the great pilgrimage seasons when stalls spill into every side alley. Expect heavy crowds; haggling is normal but gentle.